An insider's guide to Korčula, Croatia’s lesser-known island

You’d be forgiven for never hearing of Korčula, a small Dalmatian island of just 276 square kilometres, neatly tucked beneath mainland Croatia’s sprawling coastline. Despite its proximity to ever-popular Dubrovnik and Hvar, Korčula receives decidedly less airtime than other idyllic stone towns in the Adriatic.

But look beyond its neighbours’ beloved TV-themed tours and penchant for partying, and you’ll find a hidden gem offering quiet beaches, unspoiled landscapes and a crowd-free destination rich in fascinating history and culture.

When the ancient Greeks saw the island’s dense forests of holm oak and pine, they named it ‘Black Corfu’ (Korkyra Melaina), and legend suggests Korčula was discovered by the Greek hero Antenor escaping from Troy. Now, the fortified medieval old town is listed in UNESCO’s tentative list of outstanding world heritage sites. Outside of the town’s picturesque cobbled streets and unspoiled beaches and coves, you’ll find acres of olive groves and vineyards producing local olive oil and wine.

The small island is easy to explore in just a few days, and there are plenty of taxis and buses connecting the west to the east in around 45 minutes. Here’s how to discover Korčula, Croatia’s secret retreat…

The best beaches on Korčula

Vila Pržina

Just a 15-minute drive from the old town is Lumbarda, a small fisherman’s village with the best – and only – sandy beaches on Korčula. Pržina means “sand” in local Lumbardan dialect, and though it may not be large, Pržina Beach certainly lives up to its name. Its waters are warm year-round (you’ll find locals swimming as late in the year as November) and it has a volleyball court plus a beach bar serving drinks and snacks.

Bilin Zal

Just a few minutes from Pržina you’ll find the smaller but equally pretty Bilin Žal; a favourite beach spot amongst families thanks to its shallow water ideal for paddling and its stone wall backing providing shelter from the sun. There’s a stone pier which juts out into the crystal clear turquoise water, providing a lovely photo opportunity. 

Proizd 

Western Vela Luka, around 50km from Korčula town, boasts some nice beaches (Pičena Bay is a secluded picnic area with a few wooden sunloungers and rattan parasols certainly worth checking out), but most visitors use the bay as a jumping-off point for uninhabited Proizd, a 35-minute boat journey west of Korčula. There are plenty of secret beaches to discover, and though they’re mostly rocky, their unspoiled ruggedness – coupled with the distinct lack of tourists and impossibly clear waters – adds all the more charm.

Pupnatska Luka

Pupnatska Luka Beach is arguably the main draw of Korčula’s south coast. The pebble beach is around a 20-minute drive from the old town and has spectacular views over the glistening water to Lastovo island, as well as two cute seaside restaurants. Bring a parasol as there’s little natural shade on the beach. 

Vrnik

A short water taxi ride away from the old town is Korčula’s Vrink islet, a tiny island quietly loved by A-listers from Beyoncé and Jay-Z to Matthew McConaughey and Woody Harrelson. Though it’s known for its deep stone quarries dating back to Roman times, the pebble beach in front of the island’s only restaurant is perfect for paddling and sunbathing while sipping local wine.

Where to stay on Korčula

Aminess Korčula Heritage Hotel

This hotel was the very first to open on Korčula island in 1912, celebrating its 110th anniversary in 2022. Heritage Hotel is situated on the seafront in the heart of the old town – the ideal base for exploring – with views over the yacht-filled quay and Pelješac Channel. Its 20 rooms are cosy and comfortable, with a brasserie serving a buffet breakfast and Dalmatian cuisine for lunch and dinner on a beautiful sun-soaked terrace overlooking the palm-lined promenade.

Lešić Dimitri Palace

A boutique bolthole unexpectedly nestled in the middle of the ancient old town, Lešić Dimitri Palace is housed in a restored 18th-century bishop’s palace and is the only five-star accommodation on Korčula. The hotel has six spacious suites to choose from, each designed by a team of Asian-Croatian architects and inspired by Marco Polo – a native of the island – and his travels along the Silk Road. Its Michelin-star restaurant is not to be missed (more on that later), and its luxury spa – a rarity on the island – offers various types of massage and wellness treatments.

Hotel Liburna

Just a 15-minute stroll from the old town you’ll find Hotel Liburna, which boasts an impressively-sized outdoor pool on a round terrace with postcard-pretty views over the surrounding Pelješac slopes, sea, and the old town itself, just over the other side of the harbour. Most of its 112 rooms offer sea views too, as does the restaurant which offers both international and Mediterranean fare.

Prekrasna Villa

Over on the west of the island, Vela Luka is sparse in hotels, but plentiful in smart rental accommodation, most with sea views and private pools. As a result, this part of the island is home to many repeat tourists; often families with young children. Prekrasna Villa sleeps six guests and is near a promenade which offers sprawling views over the bay and neighbouring pine forests, as well as quiet beaches at either end. The swimming pool is of course a major draw, too.

Aparthotel The Dreamers’ Club

Back on the east coast, Lumbarda is like Vela Luka in that it remains untarnished by large hotels and most guests opt for self-catering options. The small, sleepy village, just 6km from the old town, is home to the island’s only sandy beaches and is known for its laid-back atmosphere, making it the perfect base for families or couples looking for a relaxing retreat. The Eco Aparthotel ‘The Dreamers’ Club’ offers six picturesque apartments and terraces complete with sun loungers, hammocks and a tree house.

Where to eat on Korčula

Filippi

Filippi was undoubtedly our most impressive dinner on the island. The restaurant is situated on the seafront promenade in the old town and offers a three- or four-course menu, choosing from cold or hot starters, mains and desserts. The fresh fish – particularly the tuna carpaccio and pan-fried sea bass – aren’t to be missed, but if you only order one thing, make it the homemade macaroni (a local speciality), washed down with the island’s best Grk or Pošip wine. Book a waterfront table at sunset so you can sit beneath the towering pine trees, listen to the sea lapping against the shore, and watch the sunset over nearby Badija island.

Address: Restaurant Filippi, Šetalište Petra Kanavelića, 20260, Korčula, Croatia
Website: restaurantfilippi.com

Adio Mare

Adio Mare was affectionately referred to as “the best restaurant on Korčula” by our taxi driver Antun, who says the family-run tavern has hardly changed since it opened its doors in 1974. Hearty Dalmatian meat and fish dishes are prepared on an authentic barbecue, and you can sit on the terrace with picturesque views of the surrounding old town or on the long tables inside the old shipbuilding workshop, a reminder of what was once Korčula’s most important industry.

Address: Adio Mare, Ulica Marka Pola 2, 20260, Korčula, Croatia
Website: smokvina.hr

Pod Bore

Though most of Korčula’s most celebrated restaurants are found in the old town on the east of the island, Pod Bore draws locals and tourists alike to Vela Luka. The menu is extensive, but the black cuttlefish risotto – a Dalmatian speciality – is done particularly well here. Pop in for lunch or dinner and try to grab a table outside to enjoy the views of the boats bobbing on the harbour opposite.

Address: Pod Bore, Obala 2, 20270, Vela Luka, Croatia
Website: podbore.com

LD Restaurant

With outdoor tables along the same promenade as Filippi, and in a similar fine-dining vein, Michelin-starred LD Restaurant also celebrates local, seasonal ingredients. The menu changes regularly, but look out for the fresh, melt-in-your-mouth scallops and platters of Ston oysters.

Address:  LD Restaurant, Don Pavla Poše 1-6, 20260, Korčula, Croatia
Website: ldrestaurant.com

Vrnik Arts Club

Korčula’s Vrnik islet is worth a visit for the delicious homemade food, lovingly prepared by chef Neda Karapandža. Perched on the town beach next to the island’s church, pull up a chair or sun lounger and enjoy views over the azure waters while tucking into the likes of creamy macaroni with succulent monkfish, severed with hunks of Neda’s warm, homemade cornbread.

Address: Vrnik Arts Club, Vrnik 10, 20260, Korčula, Croatia
Website: vrnik-arts-club.business.site

What to do on Korčula

Explore the historic old town

Korčula is one of the best-preserved medieval towns in the Adriatic, so exploring its crenellated walls and narrow cobbled streets – cleverly built in the architectural form of a fish bone to protect from the cold north winds, while allowing mild winds to blow through – is a must.

St. Mark’s Cathedral, completed in the 15th century in Gothic-Renaissance style, houses works by Tintoretto and interesting sculptural details on its façade, including squatting figures of Adam and Eve. Climb to the top of the cathedral’s Bell Tower for magnificent views. Also worth visiting is the Abbatial Treasury with an impressive collection of 15th and 16th-century Dalmatian art; the House of Marco Polo; the Icon Collection in the House of the Brotherhood of All Saints; and the Town Museum, where you can see a copy of the fourth-century Lumbarda Psephisma, the oldest inscribed stone fragment in this part of Europe telling about the founding of an Ancient Greek settlement, the earliest proof of civilisation on the island.

After exploring, head to Massimo Bar – housed in a 15th-century turret with a rooftop patio, which you access by climbing a ladder through a small opening – for a sunset cocktail.

Island-hop to Badija, Stupe and Vrink

From the old town’s marina, hop on a water taxi or hire a speedboat to explore Korčula’s idyllic Škoji archipelago, scenic isles of cerulean sea lined with lush pine forests. On unpopulated Badija – the largest island in the archipelago – you’ll find a 15th-century Franciscan monastery with a newly-opened art gallery, scenic walking or cycling paths, and a herd of fallow deer. Jet over to Stupe which, thanks to Moro Beach Club restaurant and bar, feels much more modern and is ideal for sunbathing, snacking, and snapping photos on the white seashore swing. Aforementioned Vrink will also be a stop on your island-hopping tour and is likely where you’ll want to spend the most time.

Sample local wines

Many famous wines are produced from Korčula’s vineyards: Pošip, Grk and Rukatac (white) and Plavac (red). There are various wine tours depending on your preferences – whether you want to be privately driven or join a cycling group – and most are run by local guides taking you to family-run wineries to sample local wine, honey and other regional delights.

Step back in time in ancient Blato

Towards the west of the island and around a 40-minute drive from Korčula old town is Blato, a small, sleepy rural town with a single avenue running through the centre. The quiet and peaceful square is home to Blato’s parish church of All Saints (which some sources date back to as early as the 10th century) next to its bell tower and the loggia.

Stop by the Etno House Barilo to see the ethnographic collection from the Barilo family, who have curated a private museum of old trinkets and treasures to illustrate life on Korčula through the ages. There are walls of old cooking utensils in the kitchen, photographs in the living room, and traditional nightgowns in the bedroom. 

Pop into the Blato Cultural Centre to see some fascinating archaeological finds on the first floor, and exhibitions from local artists on the second floor. Stop for food at Mala Kapja – where you’ll find all the locals eating and drinking at lunchtime – for traditional peka (a Croatian stew of meat, seafood and vegetables) cooked using an ancient roasting technique using a bell-shaped lid.

Wonder at Vela Spila cave

From Blato, head just a few minutes west to Vela Luka to visit the archaeological site of Vela Spila, an awe-inspiring cave with gaping openings in the roof. The signs around the cave will tell you of its fascinating discovery, and the archaeological finds – including skeletons – paint a picture of the prehistoric communities which once settled here. Hike from Vela Luka or take a car, and don’t forget to stroll down the pebble path near the cave’s entrance for a beautiful view over the town, the bay, and to neighbouring islands and the open sea.